So here we are in Mount Frere, Eastern Cape, South Africa. Here are some first impressions:

• Though at first we were hesitant to live in a gated apartment building, we are now quite relieved. The parking is on a first come first served basis—we usually grab a space under the portal, but the other day we got in late, and just nestled the car right inside the gate, near the road. An hour later one of our neighbors came knocking and suggested we move the car further into the complex, because ‘naughty boys’ might throw rocks at the car since it was so close to the gate. Now we park as far from the gate as possible.

Our apartment building in Mount Frere

• There’s a scrapyard across the street from our flat. It’s better than TV.

Scrapyard

• Everything runs on ‘African time’—up to 3 hours late, or not at all.
• Don’t ask for tea, because it’s boiled milk and Nescafe or a tea bag. Water does not figure in.
• The handshake: First a regular handshake; switch into an upward hand clasp (if that makes sense); then down for another regular handshake.
• We’ve been to the SHOPRITE several times, and have found most of the necessities: eggs, cheddar & feta cheeses, Bran flakes, soy milk, cabbage, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, pasta, even veggie burgers! Andy and I are wondering if it’s because of the Pakistani/halal community, because no one else seems to have any problem with massive meat consumption. For example, check out this grocery store:

The 'Eat Sum Meat' grocery store

• The electricity goes out constantly. I’ve been putting off writing a report at the office all week because the power has been out for 4 days straight. We have electricity at home, but that goes out too. We finally bought candles, and we try to make the best of it (and the cold cheese sandwiches we’re relegated to).
• In addition to the power going out, so does the water.
• I’m only just starting to get used to some of the looks we’re getting. The most common look is: “Do those white people know they’re in Mount Frere? I think they took the wrong exit.”
• The street is always bustling. Here are a few examples of what you might see:

Chickens sold on every corner.

Hungry? Why not buy a sheep! Only R1200.

KFC, as promised.

Medicinal herbs for sale.

Cape Hair Salon, located in a container. Maybe I'll get my hair did!

• Everyone is exceedingly nice. Every time we say hello in Xhosa (molo or molweni), or thank you (enkosi), they look at us like we’re their first born learning how to walk. Such love! It has really helped the transition to Mount Frere, and our work with ASAP and the Hlomelikusasa office.
• Oh, and let me not forget to mention the rats! Well, the only evidence I have is the poop (Andy and I bought some caulk to seal the ceiling so the rat pooh can’t drop onto our heads at night), but we also hear them running in the  ceiling. I’m still not convinced it’s rats–they sound more like 15 pound dogs running full tilt across the roof. Oh, how I wish it was dogs and not rats…